From when I locked the front door of my apartment behind me, to when I returned back home, was roughly a massive 17 hours!! What an insane adventure Saturday was.
I’d been to Hakuba before to go snowboarding, and had always wanted to go back in the summer to go mountain climbing/hiking but just never really got the chance. Then last week, I was scrolling through Instagram and came across a beautiful picture of a misty lake surrounded by the most beautiful autumn colours – and it just happened to be located in Hakuba! The photographer said the colours would last just another few days up in the mountains. I already had a busy weekend planned, but could I squeeze this in?! I sat at a restaurant with my iPhone and researched the details of the trip and the cost, scribbling down notes on a napkin. It was going to be a hectic and expensive day. But I was so keen to see the lake and who knows when my next chance would be. To go or not to go?! Like most decisions in my life, I based it on the saying “In the end, it’s not the years in your life that count, but the life in your years”. And that was that!
The train ride from Shinjuku to Hakuba Station was direct, but 4 hours long. It was a rapid express train that runs only once a day, departing at 7:30am. Being a sunny Saturday, it was packed! The entire reserved-seat section was booked out, and the non-reserved section where I got on, was even more intense. I had to stand in the aisle for the first hour! As we got further into the countryside, people started getting off, and I eventually found a window seat to call my home for the next couple of hours.
The train pulled into Hakuba at 11:30am. The place was of course unrecognisable compared to winter when it’s covered in snow. I stood in awe at the bare, towering mountains forming a backdrop to the town. I desparately wanted to get up there as soon as I could! From the station, it was a short bus ride and then a 10 minute walk to the Gondola, the first of 3 lifts. It was fascinating seeing the foliage becoming more and more colourful the higher I went. It’s amazing what difference just a few hundreds metres in altitude makes!
The final lift took us up to 1830m above sea level. I felt like I was up in the clouds. The air was cool and fresh, and the sun warm and welcoming. And those autumn colours!! And that beautiful blue sky! It was all insanely spectacular! I felt so lucky to be there, and was happy I’d decided to go even just to see this.
After taking in the exceptional view, both up the mountain and back down over the valley, it was time to start hiking. It would take about 45 minutes to climb another 230m. The path alternated between loose stones, wooden stairways and boardwalks. It was fairly tiring – though nothing like the gruelling Mt Fuji. It probably didn’t help that I was holding an ice cream in one hand and my camera in the other!
And then, there it was. My destination. From a distance, the lake looked like a puddle amongst the gigantic mountains! The autumn colours were just past the peak viewing time, so it wasn’t as bright and amazing as it had been lower on the mountain, but it was still so pretty! There were dozens of people around the lake, having lunch and taking photos. A light breeze meant it was hard to get that perfect mirror reflection, but as soon as the wind died down, you could hear all the camera shutters going off! We’d get about a 2-second window before the reflection was completely erased! I was fascinated by the tree-less mountains in the background. They literally could have been a painting; it hardly looked real. The evidence of snow left from last winter is a sign of how chilly it was. After hanging out at the lake for about 45 minutes, I had to start moving again to warm up. So, I bid farewell to this special corner of the world and made my way back to the chairlifts.
I took my time going back to Hakuba, stopping to eat a delicious locally-caught salmon croissant, as well as admire the pretty sunset. I had planned to catch the 4:36pm train, but missed it. Like a lot of rural towns, trains run very infrequently through Hakuba. The next one wasn’t until 6:14pm, which meant it was past 11pm when I finally got home.
It was an epic day, a little crazy even for me perhaps, but what’s life if you don’t do things like this every now and then? The journey there and back was just as much a part of the adventure as seeing the lake was, and I would do it all again in a heartbeat!